SUMMER 2015 IN CHAMONIX

Lots of work, not enough play. Be warned, if you come to Chamonix to climb and support yourself at the same time, don’t expect to climb 5 days a week and work 2 because the exact opposite is what is going to happen. And that pretty sums up my summer: lots of mountain running before or after work, some multi pitch climbs squeezed in available time, not many alpine climbs but a few classics and some significant ones. Still I can’t complain much, I got more mountaineering under my belt in the little time I had for it in these past months than if I was still living in Brazil.

 

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SUMMER CLIMBS

 

No need to state how hard it is for a newcomer to Chamonix to find regular climbing partners. It’s written around other pages and blogs and it is well known although not spoken. So I’ve climbed with lots of people this summer, and unfortunately the best ones were people passing by. For the other few whom we got along, eventually work schedules interfered, but we keep trying! So, bellow some shots, when I remembered to take them, in no particular order.

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First time on the Cosmiques Arete, getting ready to go on the crux section.

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Gorgeous sunset from the Cosmiques refuge.

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With Ines from Chile on the East Arete du Tacul.

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Simone Moro shooting some advert near the Midi.

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A day of easy trekking with the girls, up to Lac Blanc.

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Setting up camp on the Col du Midi.

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One of the first pitches on the Gervassutti Pillar.

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Getting ready to descend the Midi ridge yet another time.

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A midsummer run this season, where I just felt like running naked because it was so freaking hot.

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Chema on the Gervassutti. Or was it the Boccalatte?

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Bivouac!

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Another bivouac before heading for the Couturier on the Verte.

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Sergio and myself before heading for Mont Blanc.

 

I underestimated the difference of climbing with anyone and with climbing with friends. In late August I had some visits from Brazil and even though we didn’t do any super hard climbs it was probably the best company and partnership in a long time.

We went for some multi pitch classics and some alpine easy classics up in the massif. It was clearly climbing for the fun of it, and on top of it all, one of them is a pro photographer and we came out with rad ass pictures as the one on the cover of this post. Except for another partner I have here and whom I’ve known from before getting here, these were the only times I was enjoying it without having someone eyeing me and waiting for me to prove my climbing abilities. It was for the fun, not the fame. I loved it, and hopefully at least one of them will be back in January. Fingers crossed!

© 2015 Edson Vandeira

Best partner of the season! Thanks for the visit!

© 2015 Edson Vandeira

Finishing up the Point Lachenal traverse.

Vandeira on one of the dihedrals of the Frisson-Roche on Brevent. Best multi-pitch of the season.

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Myself on the last dihedral of the Frisson-Roche.

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Perfect summer day climb.

Ice climbing in the crevasses in the Mer de Glace.

The end of the Pointes Lachenal traverse. Mellow and fun!

Summer ended with a running injury, the news I was selected for the Mont Blanc Marathon next year, the obvious decision to stay for the winter and a move to a new awesome apartment in a chalet far away from the Cham Sud mess, the cancellation of my first 8000 m bid due to the lack of funds, less 6 kg off my booty finally, and finally a trip with my parents to the very south of Italy for some R&R. And still, trying to soak in the fact that for the first time in quite a few years, I haven´t really been in extreme altitude… I need my drug!

 

div-blackWINTER IS COMING

 

I’m sure at some point this winter someone is going to find me frozen in some corner of Chamonix. I am a tropical born mountaineer about to go through my first true European winter (Spain last year doesn’t count) and I confess I am scared to my bones.

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It´s coming! #fear

If I get chills while running in 0 degrees in the past weeks I cannot imagine trying to ice climb in whatever absurd temperature… brings me memories of some of the worst screaming barfies ever in Roya last February.

And then people are trying to convince me to take on all types of different skiing. I should do nordic because I run, I should snowboard because I surf, I should do ski-whatever for climbing approaches. I don’t make any plans anymore because this summer was absolutely not what I expected and all my plans changed in every sense, so let’s see what comes out when I write again in six months.

Have a great winter everyone!

 

Written by Cissa

Fanatic alpinist, rock climber, and wannabe surfer. Sports and travel content writer and graphic designer in the meantime. Self sponsored, based out of a haul bag.

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