• CORDILLERA BLANCA 2014 – DISPATCH 1

    A “put-you-back-in-shape” bike-with-a-bitch workout in the Cordillera Negra So this is how this journey begins: head to the airport at midnight, flight leaves delayed at 4h in the morning, arrive in Lima at around 7h, 1h15 of traffic to get to the Cruz del Sur bus terminal, over 12h of waiting for my bus to leave,… Read more »

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    Posted on May 12, 2014 by
  • MY 33

    So here I am in the Cruz del Sur bus terminal waiting for endless hours for my bus to leave to Huaraz. I´ve had breakfast, listened to some music, did some crossword puzzles, cut some Alta Montanha stickers and just finished watching “500 days of Summer”. In all those moments I kept asking myself what… Read more »

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    Posted on May 8, 2014 by
  • ON EVEREST 2014

    I didn´t write anything on the Everest season because my opinion is very well rounded on it and I don´t feel a need to share it, but I just HAD to post this excerpt from this interview:   “Do you think any teams will climb the South Col route without Sherpa support this season? No,… Read more »

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    Posted on May 1, 2014 by
  • “QUIT, DO EPIC SH*T”

    “Third time is a charm” A few days ago I quit my job as middle-management at a multinational here in Brazil. I had a decent salary, great health plan, meal plan, life insurance, and a bonus plan. Why am I writing about these things really? I guess because these are means to an end. A… Read more »

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    Posted on April 1, 2014 by
  • DEATH IN THE MOUNTAINS

    Around this time of last year, I was avidly searching for news of a brazilian climber that went missing on Aconcagua. I didn´t know him in person, but we had created a virtual acknowledgment of each other since he tried to buy a down jacket from me in a Facebook classified community we were both… Read more »

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    Posted on March 10, 2014 by
  • FIRST CLIMB OF 2014: THE AID CLASSIC “TETO DO BAÚ”

    Happy 2014 everyone! I hope this year is as filled with great climbing as 2013 was. Actually, I want more!   INTRODUCTION   The roof is the topmost tip of the rock. When I first started rock climbing a little over a year ago, I set my eyes on quite a few routes that are… Read more »

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    Posted on January 14, 2014 by
  • ALASKA CLIMBING IS SO SEXY IT HURTS

    Someday I’ll climb there just to get my humility back. Alpine Climbing in the Central Alaska Range from Braden Downey on Vimeo. The Alaska Range – Mooses Tooth – Shaken Not Stirred from Ephay on Vimeo. Mt. Foraker via the Sultana Ridge, Alaska Range, 2011 (V6) from damntall on Vimeo.

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    Posted on December 10, 2013 by
  • SILVIA VIDAL INTERVIEW ON ALTAMONTANHA.COM

    I recently interviewed big all, aid and solo awesomeness of a climber Silvia Vidal for brazilian mountaineering website AltaMontanha.com. It’s in portuguese and I cannot publish it in other languages but that’s what Google Translate is for. Check it out by clicking the image bellow.

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    Posted on December 5, 2013 by
  • AERIAL IMAGES OF THE DEVIL’S NEEDLE IN BRAZIL

    Not a great editing job, but definately a well put collection of images of a seldom climbed (due to weather) spire in the Serra dos Órgãos region in the state of Rio de Janeiro. The Devil’s Needle is 3rd-4th class climb up on slabs and mainly chimneys with a considerable long and steep approach, but… Read more »

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    Posted on November 12, 2013 by
  • APRENDIZADOS DE MONTANHA – CORDILHEIRA BRANCA 2013

    TREINAMENTO   Vamos combinar: treinar é um saco, e minha cota de atleta nessa vida já expirou faz tempo. Comecei a treinar em março, e já no final de junho não aguentava mais correr, principalmente quando não conseguia correr na rua e tinha que correr na esteira. O Facebook cheio de foto do povo aproveitando… Read more »

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    Posted on October 24, 2013 by