• CORDILLERA BLANCA 2014 – FINAL DISPATCH

    I didn´t climb any mountains after Arteson, so dispatch 5 ends here! No kidding!   SURFING AND MOUNTAINS   I got back to Huaraz to try to climb a few more mountains after my first week at the beach, but the season was clearly over for me (and for many people as well, very bad… Read more »

    Read More
    Posted on September 5, 2014 by
  • CORDILLERA BLANCA TRIP REPORT IN PORTUGUESE

    I´ve been forgetting to post about my trip reports on Brazilian mountaineering and climbing website Altamontanha.com, on which I write a column. Click bellow to read the second part. First part is here. Enjoy!

    Read More
    Posted on August 7, 2014 by
  • SAMBA DO LEÃO, NEW ROUTE ON FITZ ROY (2013) – FULL FILM

    In the 2013 season 3 Brazilians opened a new route on Fitz Roy, called “Samba do Leão” and graded 6c+ 1400m, 30 pitches, and eventually nominated for a 2014 Piolet D´Or. Watch here.

    Read More
    Posted on August 5, 2014 by
  • SURFING IN BETWEEN DISPATCHES

    Wait! Isn´t this a climbing blog? What´s this picture doing here? The best idea of the past months was to head down to Huanchaco and get a taste of a sport I should have tried before I was even born. I left Huanchaco feeling like part of the Brazilian Storm! Just kidding! These days in… Read more »

    Read More
    Posted on July 30, 2014 by
  • CORDILLERA BLANCA 2014 – DISPATCH 4

    Hello lazy people killing time at work! Welcome to a new dispatch! So far July has been a month of long approaches, great partnership, insomnia, World Cup and some tense moments in Parón valley. I´ve hit the 2 month mark of climbing non stop with few rest days in between, which means I am exhausted,… Read more »

    Read More
    Posted on July 22, 2014 by
  • COLE

    On Sunday, July 13th, I left Huaraz with Craig, Tomas and Vicente towards Parón valley. Craig and I would climb Arteson´s SE face and then Piramide´s NW face, Tomas and Vicente would stick to the first one. Upon arrival in base camp we met John and Cole. Immediately after dropping our huge packs we headed… Read more »

    Read More
    Posted on July 16, 2014 by
  • A REHEARSAL ON THE DICHOTOMY OF FAILURE AND SUCCESS, NOTES ON THE FRAILTY OF LIFE

    Mountain climbing renders many stories of heroic deeds: people overcoming many difficulties to be in the mountains and then to reach their summits. These become news, books, films, and are awe inspiring and makes us think that those are the full stories and tell how things always go. It makes people think every try renders… Read more »

    Read More
    Posted on July 11, 2014 by
  • “NOT ALL WHO WANDER ARE LOST”

    There´s a saying that goes “if you don´t know where to go, just stay where you are”. I´d like to think, if you don´t know where to go after the climbing season is over, watch this: 35 from ARC’TERYX on Vimeo. Not that you´ll have any answers though, but it´s a great video. 😉

    Read More
    Posted on June 29, 2014 by
  • CORDILLERA BLANCA 2014 – DISPATCH 3

    Welcome to a new dispatch, courtesy of Sex Burger in Huaraz. Huaraz is a bad city for climbers. As Nacho says, its bars suck away your money, give you a hangover and make you lose focus on the actual climbs. I cannot deny any of this and in fact, as we say in Brazil “the… Read more »

    Read More
    Posted on June 20, 2014 by
  • CORDILLERA BLANCA 2014 – DISPATCH 2

    Here we go for a decent post about this trip, vacation, gap year or whatever one calls it. Yes, it´s an El Niño year and I only got to know about it a few weeks before I left, but that didn´t make me change my plans. Positive thinking all the way, and by the way… Read more »

    Read More
    Posted on June 7, 2014 by