967 DAYS

I could count countries, continents, crags, mountains, cities, routes, people. I won´t. The start of this trip seems like such a long time ago, that when I got to Brazil and people asked me about Nepal, it felt like it was 10 years ago. I can just count that 967 days is almost 3 years…. Read more »

#brazilontherocks: SÃO BENTO DO SAPUCAÍ

Save the best for last. One of the classic areas for long routes in Brazil, and probably the area that is fastest pioneering clean climbing, “São Bento” offers tough granite trad, multi pitch, sport and boulder areas at huge amounts, for all styles, halfway between the two largest cities in the country. But because of… Read more »

#brazilontherocks: FALÉSIA PARAÍSO

A project that began small and turned into a national reference for easy to intermediate sport climbing routes, “Paradise Cliffs” offers accessible granite climbing of many different styles in a secluded area with unbeatable good vibes in the state of São Paulo.  Located in a hidden valley in the outskirts of the town of Pindamonhangaba,… Read more »

#brazilontherocks: CASA DE PEDRA, BAGÉ

A hidden gem in the middle of nowhere, closer to Uruguay than to any capital of Brazil, for those who love isolation, completely wild camping, in conglomerate rock, surrounded by magical looking woods. And best of all: absolutely NO CROWDS. Casa de Pedra (House of Stone), also referred to as Bagé – the county in… Read more »

#brazilontherocks: SALTO VENTOSO

Salto Ventoso is a well known basalt climbing spot for intermediate/hard level sport climbing in a dreamy setting with world class routes. Located about 200 km from the capital, amidst many other sport climbing areas, it is the school for many climbers in the state and quite a challenging one, with projects of up to… Read more »

#brazilontherocks: URCA, RIO DE JANEIRO

Rio! Rio! Rio! Always on the spotlight and most recognizable post card of Brazil, the city of Rio de Janeiro is the birthplace of climbing in the country, home to an amazing climbing community, routes of all shapes and sizes and the largest urban climbing area in the world. Be it a 300 m multi-pitch… Read more »

#brazilontherocks: SERRA DO CIPÓ

Serra do Cipó is probably the most well known and mythical sport climbing area of Brazil, and considered by some the best sport climbing area in South America. Also around the city of Belo Horizonte, Serra do Cipó is one of many limestone sport climbing areas of great quality and easy access, however, it has… Read more »

#brazilontherocks: LAPA DO SEU ANTÃO

Welcome to Brazil on the Rocks, a small series dedicated to helping foreigners explore some of the many options for rock climbing in Brazil. While travelling around the world I heard many times people saying they heard there´s great rock climbing in Brazil, but most of the time they couldn´t name a single spot. But… Read more »

PERU 2016 – DISPATCH 3

After a week of “resting” around Huaraz (3000 m) and rock climbing (usually around 4000 m), and trying to keep up with the Swiss boy´s daily calorie intake (about 5000 calories a day maybe, half of that for breakfast), I had recovered maybe 1.5 kg of the 5 kg or so I lost in the… Read more »

PERU 2016 – DISPATCH 2

Approved partnership with Bernardo, we decided to head to Alpamayo and Quitaraju next. I had been there already, and climbed Quitaraju in 2014. Alpamayo was a no go due to 2 nights of storms, and although it has never figured high on my list of climbs, I figured I should try it again just because… Read more »

  • BEM VINDO AO MEU NOVO SITE

    Apesar de estar pensando nisso já faz tempo, não foi até muito recentemente que percebi que seria uma boa ideia colocar no ar meu site próprio. Com tantas perguntas que recebo de leitores brasileiros sobre escalada em alta montanha e viagens, fazia mais do que sentido publicar meu conhecimento e deixá-lo sempre visível no web,… Read more »

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    Posted on February 2, 2015 by
  • WELCOME TO MY NEW PAGE

    Although I thought about this for a long time, it wasn´t until I started receiving a lot of questions and feedback that it started to make sense to have it all publicized for anyone who´d want to look. So I decided to set up a webpage about my climbing and traveling, and to have it… Read more »

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    Posted on February 2, 2015 by
  • I HAVE A NEW IDOL

    I´m a little too old to be having idols, or maybe what some people would call heroes, or maybe I´m not. But on my recent incursion into the surfing world, and add to that my current incursion into the Basque Country, I´ve came across this curious type which has got one of the most latent… Read more »

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    Posted on January 28, 2015 by
  • A HIMALAYAN DEBUT – CLIMBING ISLAND PEAK AND AMA DABLAM

    Main character in this post, this too may be the actual most beautiful mountain in the world. Ladies and gentleman, I present you: Ama Dablam. Give it a good hug. It wants it.   AS USUAL, AN INTRODUCTION   It all started in Peru. The partner I had in july, Craig, was already heavy into… Read more »

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    Posted on December 19, 2014 by
  • YO!

    Hello climbers of the world! I am finished with my climbing in Nepal but I won’t be able to access my Google accounts on my computer until I get to Spain in about a month. That means I can’t post my trip report until then (I’m posting this from my phone). But in case you’re… Read more »

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    Posted on November 11, 2014 by
  • A NEW INTERVIEW!

    I got interviewed for Blog de Escalada, a Brazilian portal that´s pretty democratic and covers pretty much every type of climbing activity in the country, aside from producing their own content. The interview covers really regional related topics and unfortunately we didn´t talk much about alpine climbing per se, but in any case, there´s hardly… Read more »

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    Posted on September 24, 2014 by
  • PARAÍSO TRAILER

    Falésia Paraíso, or translated literally “Paradise Cliffs”, is one of my favorite sport climb crags in Brazil. I´ve spent countless weekends there in the past years. This is where I started leading on my own and developed myself from a top-roper to an 11 grade climber, forged many good friendships with the amazing locals, camped… Read more »

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    Posted on September 22, 2014 by
  • CORDILLERA BLANCA 2014 – FINAL DISPATCH

    I didn´t climb any mountains after Arteson, so dispatch 5 ends here! No kidding!   SURFING AND MOUNTAINS   I got back to Huaraz to try to climb a few more mountains after my first week at the beach, but the season was clearly over for me (and for many people as well, very bad… Read more »

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    Posted on September 5, 2014 by
  • CORDILLERA BLANCA TRIP REPORT IN PORTUGUESE

    I´ve been forgetting to post about my trip reports on Brazilian mountaineering and climbing website Altamontanha.com, on which I write a column. Click bellow to read the second part. First part is here. Enjoy!

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    Posted on August 7, 2014 by
  • SAMBA DO LEÃO, NEW ROUTE ON FITZ ROY (2013) – FULL FILM

    In the 2013 season 3 Brazilians opened a new route on Fitz Roy, called “Samba do Leão” and graded 6c+ 1400m, 30 pitches, and eventually nominated for a 2014 Piolet D´Or. Watch here.

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    Posted on August 5, 2014 by