967 DAYS

I could count countries, continents, crags, mountains, cities, routes, people. I won´t. The start of this trip seems like such a long time ago, that when I got to Brazil and people asked me about Nepal, it felt like it was 10 years ago. I can just count that 967 days is almost 3 years…. Read more »

#brazilontherocks: SÃO BENTO DO SAPUCAÍ

Save the best for last. One of the classic areas for long routes in Brazil, and probably the area that is fastest pioneering clean climbing, “São Bento” offers tough granite trad, multi pitch, sport and boulder areas at huge amounts, for all styles, halfway between the two largest cities in the country. But because of… Read more »

#brazilontherocks: FALÉSIA PARAÍSO

A project that began small and turned into a national reference for easy to intermediate sport climbing routes, “Paradise Cliffs” offers accessible granite climbing of many different styles in a secluded area with unbeatable good vibes in the state of São Paulo.  Located in a hidden valley in the outskirts of the town of Pindamonhangaba,… Read more »

#brazilontherocks: CASA DE PEDRA, BAGÉ

A hidden gem in the middle of nowhere, closer to Uruguay than to any capital of Brazil, for those who love isolation, completely wild camping, in conglomerate rock, surrounded by magical looking woods. And best of all: absolutely NO CROWDS. Casa de Pedra (House of Stone), also referred to as Bagé – the county in… Read more »

#brazilontherocks: SALTO VENTOSO

Salto Ventoso is a well known basalt climbing spot for intermediate/hard level sport climbing in a dreamy setting with world class routes. Located about 200 km from the capital, amidst many other sport climbing areas, it is the school for many climbers in the state and quite a challenging one, with projects of up to… Read more »

#brazilontherocks: URCA, RIO DE JANEIRO

Rio! Rio! Rio! Always on the spotlight and most recognizable post card of Brazil, the city of Rio de Janeiro is the birthplace of climbing in the country, home to an amazing climbing community, routes of all shapes and sizes and the largest urban climbing area in the world. Be it a 300 m multi-pitch… Read more »

#brazilontherocks: SERRA DO CIPÓ

Serra do Cipó is probably the most well known and mythical sport climbing area of Brazil, and considered by some the best sport climbing area in South America. Also around the city of Belo Horizonte, Serra do Cipó is one of many limestone sport climbing areas of great quality and easy access, however, it has… Read more »

#brazilontherocks: LAPA DO SEU ANTÃO

Welcome to Brazil on the Rocks, a small series dedicated to helping foreigners explore some of the many options for rock climbing in Brazil. While travelling around the world I heard many times people saying they heard there´s great rock climbing in Brazil, but most of the time they couldn´t name a single spot. But… Read more »

PERU 2016 – DISPATCH 3

After a week of “resting” around Huaraz (3000 m) and rock climbing (usually around 4000 m), and trying to keep up with the Swiss boy´s daily calorie intake (about 5000 calories a day maybe, half of that for breakfast), I had recovered maybe 1.5 kg of the 5 kg or so I lost in the… Read more »

PERU 2016 – DISPATCH 2

Approved partnership with Bernardo, we decided to head to Alpamayo and Quitaraju next. I had been there already, and climbed Quitaraju in 2014. Alpamayo was a no go due to 2 nights of storms, and although it has never figured high on my list of climbs, I figured I should try it again just because… Read more »

  • CHAMONIX: FIRST IMPRESSIONS, FIRST OUTINGS

    This is officially now, a Chamonix based blog, page, whatever. Yes, after rambling around the world I ended up here which seems logic to any alpinist nut, but was not for me for a long time. Boy, was I wrong! I wish I had arrived here earlier, like, 10 years ago. But okay, being here… Read more »

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    Posted on May 6, 2015 by
  • 346 DIAS

    Tudo tem um fim, mesmo uma viagem sem data pra acabar. Foram quase 12 meses arrastando por 3 continentes 40 kg de equipamento, escalando em algumas das cordilheiras mais incríveis do mundo, surfando em algumas das ondas mais famosas, comendo das comidas mais exóticas, e conhecendo sempre muita, mas muita gente incrível. Mas viajar cansa,… Read more »

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    Posted on May 2, 2015 by
  • CLIMBING IN SPAIN PART III – SPRING TRADS

    Tomorrow is my last day in Spain. I survived my first European winter. Well, it was in Spain, but still, most of it was in the north, but it was still winter. I´ve never been so cold in my life as I was while climbing in Roya or Gredos, during Carnival. But this winter overall… Read more »

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    Posted on April 13, 2015 by
  • CLIMBING TIDBITS – MARCH 2015

    Interesting, relevant and fun news from the climbing world.   TOM BALLARD. ALPS. WINTER. NORTH FACES. BY THE WAY, SIX OF THEM. ALONE.   His Awesomeness of a climber, Tom Ballard decided to go play around in this winter in the Alps. People say is hard enough climbing in winter anywhere, let alone in the… Read more »

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    Posted on April 5, 2015 by
  • SEGUROS VIAGEM PRA ESCALADA, ALTA MONTANHA E VIAGENS DE LONGO PRAZO

    A escalada, em todas as suas modalidades, é uma atividade de risco. E quando viajamos pra fora do país pra praticar escalada, é imprescindível termos um seguro que cubra eventuais acidentes ou ocorrências decorrentes da prática. Não adianta achar que é uma boa economia sair do país sem seguro: resgates nas montanhas envolvem mobilização de… Read more »

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    Posted on March 25, 2015 by
  • WINTER CLIMBING IN SPAIN – PART II

    I guess not climbing also teaches you things. I was anxious to climb ice, couloirs, north faces. “It is Europe, it has stable weather, reliable mountains.” Poor me, so naive… Northern Spain has seen one of the worst snow storms of the past many years, and that meant a lot more snow than what I´d… Read more »

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    Posted on March 13, 2015 by
  • “PARAÍSO”, WATCH FULL MOVIE ONLINE

    A few months ago I posted the trailer for a short film called “Paraíso”, about the beginnings and development of what I consider to be my local crag. The film was produced by Morfina Filmes and directed by Gabriel Tarso, and was in the running for best film in the Rio Mountain Film Festival. It… Read more »

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    Posted on March 6, 2015 by
  • WINTER CLIMBING IN SPAIN – PART I

    When one mentions “climbing” and “Spain” in the same sentence, it is usually sport climbing and places like Oliana, Margalef and Siurana that come to mind. But Spain, Catalunya and the Basque Country aren´t all about sport climbing monsters or “máquinas” as they say. This is the land of many super strong, daring and pioreening… Read more »

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    Posted on February 11, 2015 by
  • VIDEOS DE ESCALADA – MEUS PREFERIDOS DE 2014

    Nós escaladores normalmente somos loucos por vídeos de escalada. Bom, pelo menos 99% dos escaladores que eu conheço. Nessa de mania de listas, resolvi compartilhar os vídeos que mais me impressionaram, dos escaladores mais monstros, nas vias mais incríveis (sem nenhuma ordem especial).   MARK TWIGHT´S BEYOND GOOD AND EVIL, DA MILLET   Sou uma fã… Read more »

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    Posted on February 5, 2015 by
  • CLIMBING VIDEOS – 2014´s FAVORITES

    We climbers are all video freaks, at least 100% of the ones I know. I figured I´d share my selection of the ones I feel are the most impressive videos of the most awesome climbers and bad ass routes. They´re in no particular order.   MARK TWIGHT´S BEYOND GOOD AND EVIL, BY MILLET   I am… Read more »

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    Posted on February 5, 2015 by