967 DAYS

I could count countries, continents, crags, mountains, cities, routes, people. I won´t. The start of this trip seems like such a long time ago, that when I got to Brazil and people asked me about Nepal, it felt like it was 10 years ago. I can just count that 967 days is almost 3 years…. Read more »

#brazilontherocks: SÃO BENTO DO SAPUCAÍ

Save the best for last. One of the classic areas for long routes in Brazil, and probably the area that is fastest pioneering clean climbing, “São Bento” offers tough granite trad, multi pitch, sport and boulder areas at huge amounts, for all styles, halfway between the two largest cities in the country. But because of… Read more »

#brazilontherocks: FALÉSIA PARAÍSO

A project that began small and turned into a national reference for easy to intermediate sport climbing routes, “Paradise Cliffs” offers accessible granite climbing of many different styles in a secluded area with unbeatable good vibes in the state of São Paulo.  Located in a hidden valley in the outskirts of the town of Pindamonhangaba,… Read more »

#brazilontherocks: CASA DE PEDRA, BAGÉ

A hidden gem in the middle of nowhere, closer to Uruguay than to any capital of Brazil, for those who love isolation, completely wild camping, in conglomerate rock, surrounded by magical looking woods. And best of all: absolutely NO CROWDS. Casa de Pedra (House of Stone), also referred to as Bagé – the county in… Read more »

#brazilontherocks: SALTO VENTOSO

Salto Ventoso is a well known basalt climbing spot for intermediate/hard level sport climbing in a dreamy setting with world class routes. Located about 200 km from the capital, amidst many other sport climbing areas, it is the school for many climbers in the state and quite a challenging one, with projects of up to… Read more »

#brazilontherocks: URCA, RIO DE JANEIRO

Rio! Rio! Rio! Always on the spotlight and most recognizable post card of Brazil, the city of Rio de Janeiro is the birthplace of climbing in the country, home to an amazing climbing community, routes of all shapes and sizes and the largest urban climbing area in the world. Be it a 300 m multi-pitch… Read more »

#brazilontherocks: SERRA DO CIPÓ

Serra do Cipó is probably the most well known and mythical sport climbing area of Brazil, and considered by some the best sport climbing area in South America. Also around the city of Belo Horizonte, Serra do Cipó is one of many limestone sport climbing areas of great quality and easy access, however, it has… Read more »

#brazilontherocks: LAPA DO SEU ANTÃO

Welcome to Brazil on the Rocks, a small series dedicated to helping foreigners explore some of the many options for rock climbing in Brazil. While travelling around the world I heard many times people saying they heard there´s great rock climbing in Brazil, but most of the time they couldn´t name a single spot. But… Read more »

PERU 2016 – DISPATCH 3

After a week of “resting” around Huaraz (3000 m) and rock climbing (usually around 4000 m), and trying to keep up with the Swiss boy´s daily calorie intake (about 5000 calories a day maybe, half of that for breakfast), I had recovered maybe 1.5 kg of the 5 kg or so I lost in the… Read more »

PERU 2016 – DISPATCH 2

Approved partnership with Bernardo, we decided to head to Alpamayo and Quitaraju next. I had been there already, and climbed Quitaraju in 2014. Alpamayo was a no go due to 2 nights of storms, and although it has never figured high on my list of climbs, I figured I should try it again just because… Read more »

  • PERU 2016 – DISPATCH 1

    As the shuttle left the Chamonix valley, I couldn´t feel sadness, instead I felt anxious. As the plane lifted off Geneva, I started feeling relief. As I waited to board in Madrid towards Lima, alongside Peruvians, I felt that familiarity come back again. The Peruvian accent in the airport sounded like music. In the bus… Read more »

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    Posted on July 19, 2016 by
  • ROC TRIP SARDINIA

    It seems like Europe has been plagued from day one of 2016 with an eternal cyclone spinning cloud over the mains continent, that seems parked like… forever. Chamonix and most of the old continent have been having snow and rain non stop. So what do you do if you have a vacation scheduled with a… Read more »

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    Posted on July 2, 2016 by
  • 768 DIAS

    Mais de um ano atrás postei o artigo 346 Dias, relatando como tinha sido meu primeiro ano de viagem pra escalar e surfar pelo mundo. Lá no final eu dizia que minha estadia em Chamonix era open ended e de fato, foi. Depois de 18 meses escalando em picos épicos da Espanha e no berço… Read more »

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    Posted on June 16, 2016 by
  • 768 DAYS

    Over a year ago I posted in Portuguese 346 Days, detailing my year of travelling for climbing and surfing around the world. I usually post my trip reports in Portuguese on Brazilian portals to which I contribute to, so I figured a “wrap” about everything that happened in that year would have a good place… Read more »

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    Posted on June 14, 2016 by
  • A SIMPLICIDADE DO MOVIMENTO

    Sentado em uma cadeira de escritório, numa empresa, numa agência, numa oficina, tudo que é o oposto parece sonho. “A grama do vizinho é sempre mais verde”. Com as mídias sociais parece que todo mundo menos nosso círculo imediato está vivendo uma vida perfeita. Então queremos também. Também merecemos, também vamos largar tudo e sair… Read more »

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    Posted on June 2, 2016 by
  • THE “LIVING THE LIFE” LIFE, FROM A THIRD WORLD CLIMBER P.O.V.

    Since I can’t write about climbing because I haven’t been climbing much outside due to endless rain, I’m going to write about climbing philosophy. The cheap kind. The type you read when you have absolutely nothing else to do, after watching all episodes of at least two seasons of any TV series, spending two hours convincing… Read more »

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    Posted on May 31, 2016 by
  • DIARY OF AN INJURY

    Dear web page, world, people that should be climbing but are wasting time on the internet: for those who don´t know yet, being injured sucks. But is doesn´t have to be all blues. “You can’t climb, period”, said the doc after I tried to go dry tooling on an M5 route and it just destroyed… Read more »

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    Posted on March 16, 2016 by
  • PREFACE/2015/PROLOGUE

    I questioned myself several times if I should write a wrap up of 2015 or not. It seems like I didn’t do anything really relevant climbing wise after such and eventful 2014, so what would be the point? I’ve done some cool routes here in the Alps but there are far more and better written… Read more »

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    Posted on December 30, 2015 by
  • SUMMER 2015 IN CHAMONIX

    Lots of work, not enough play. Be warned, if you come to Chamonix to climb and support yourself at the same time, don’t expect to climb 5 days a week and work 2 because the exact opposite is what is going to happen. And that pretty sums up my summer: lots of mountain running before… Read more »

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    Posted on October 24, 2015 by
  • CHAM LIFE, 2.5 MONTHS IN

    IT STOPPED RAINING! I´d love to be able to write a post with at least a few dozen climbs, but unfortunately that is not how this will go. Since I am sponsored by no one less than myself, I have to produce myself the funds to live the lifestyle, and in May and June that… Read more »

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    Posted on July 15, 2015 by