Posts Categorized: Rock climbling

#brazilontherocks: LAPA DO SEU ANTÃO

Welcome to Brazil on the Rocks, a small series dedicated to helping foreigners explore some of the many options for rock climbing in Brazil. While travelling around the world I heard many times people saying they heard there´s great rock climbing in Brazil, but most of the time they couldn´t name a single spot. But… Read more »

PERU 2016 – DISPATCH 2

Approved partnership with Bernardo, we decided to head to Alpamayo and Quitaraju next. I had been there already, and climbed Quitaraju in 2014. Alpamayo was a no go due to 2 nights of storms, and although it has never figured high on my list of climbs, I figured I should try it again just because… Read more »

ROC TRIP SARDINIA

It seems like Europe has been plagued from day one of 2016 with an eternal cyclone spinning cloud over the mains continent, that seems parked like… forever. Chamonix and most of the old continent have been having snow and rain non stop. So what do you do if you have a vacation scheduled with a… Read more »

DIARY OF AN INJURY

Dear web page, world, people who should be climbing but are wasting time on the internet: for those who don´t know yet, being injured sucks. But is doesn´t have to be all blues. “You can’t climb, period”, said the doc after I tried to go dry tooling on an M5 route and it just destroyed… Read more »

SUMMER 2015 IN CHAMONIX

Lots of work, not enough play. Be warned, if you come to Chamonix to climb and support yourself at the same time, don’t expect to climb 5 days a week and work 2 because the exact opposite is what is going to happen. And that pretty sums up my summer: lots of mountain running before… Read more »

CLIMBING IN SPAIN PART III – SPRING TRADS

Tomorrow is my last day in Spain. I survived my first European winter. Well, it was in Spain, but still, most of it was in the north, but it was still winter. I´ve never been so cold in my life as I was while climbing in Roya or Gredos, during Carnival. But this winter overall… Read more »

WINTER CLIMBING IN SPAIN – PART II

I guess not climbing also teaches you things. I was anxious to climb ice, couloirs, north faces. “It is Europe, it has stable weather, reliable mountains.” Poor me, so naive… Northern Spain has seen one of the worst snow storms of the past many years, and that meant a lot more snow than what I´d… Read more »

WINTER CLIMBING IN SPAIN – PART I

When one mentions “climbing” and “Spain” in the same sentence, it is usually sport climbing and places like Oliana, Margalef and Siurana that come to mind. But Spain, Catalunya and the Basque Country aren´t all about sport climbing monsters or “máquinas” as they say. This is the land of many super strong, daring and pioreening… Read more »

CORDILLERA BLANCA 2014 – DISPATCH 1

A “put-you-back-in-shape” bike-with-a-bitch workout in the Cordillera Negra So this is how this journey begins: head to the airport at midnight, flight leaves delayed at 4h in the morning, arrive in Lima at around 7h, 1h15 of traffic to get to the Cruz del Sur bus terminal, over 12h of waiting for my bus to leave,… Read more »

FIRST CLIMB OF 2014: THE AID CLASSIC “TETO DO BAÚ”

Happy 2014 everyone! I hope this year is as filled with great climbing as 2013 was. Actually, I want more!   INTRODUCTION   The roof is the topmost tip of the rock. When I first started rock climbing a little over a year ago, I set my eyes on quite a few routes that are… Read more »

AERIAL IMAGES OF THE DEVIL’S NEEDLE IN BRAZIL

Not a great editing job, but definately a well put collection of images of a seldom climbed (due to weather) spire in the Serra dos Órgãos region in the state of Rio de Janeiro. The Devil’s Needle is 3rd-4th class climb up on slabs and mainly chimneys with a considerable long and steep approach, but… Read more »