Posts Categorized: Mountaineering

PERU 2016 – DISPATCH 3

After a week of “resting” around Huaraz (3000 m) and rock climbing (usually around 4000 m), and trying to keep up with the Swiss boy´s daily calorie intake (about 5000 calories a day maybe, half of that for breakfast), I had recovered maybe 1.5 kg of the 5 kg or so I lost in the… Read more »

PERU 2016 – DISPATCH 1

As the shuttle left the Chamonix valley, I couldn´t feel sadness, instead I felt anxious. As the plane lifted off Geneva, I started feeling relief. As I waited to board in Madrid towards Lima, alongside Peruvians, I felt that familiarity come back again. The Peruvian accent in the airport sounded like music. In the bus… Read more »

PREFACE/2015/PROLOGUE

I questioned myself several times if I should write a wrap up of 2015 or not. It seems like I didn’t do anything really relevant climbing wise after such and eventful 2014, so what would be the point? I’ve done some cool routes here in the Alps but there are far more and better written… Read more »

WINTER CLIMBING IN SPAIN – PART II

I guess not climbing also teaches you things. I was anxious to climb ice, couloirs, north faces. “It is Europe, it has stable weather, reliable mountains.” Poor me, so naive… Northern Spain has seen one of the worst snow storms of the past many years, and that meant a lot more snow than what I´d… Read more »

WINTER CLIMBING IN SPAIN – PART I

When one mentions “climbing” and “Spain” in the same sentence, it is usually sport climbing and places like Oliana, Margalef and Siurana that come to mind. But Spain, Catalunya and the Basque Country aren´t all about sport climbing monsters or “máquinas” as they say. This is the land of many super strong, daring and pioreening… Read more »

A HIMALAYAN DEBUT – CLIMBING ISLAND PEAK AND AMA DABLAM

Main character in this post, this too may be the actual most beautiful mountain in the world. Ladies and gentleman, I present you: Ama Dablam. Give it a good hug. It wants it.   AS USUAL, AN INTRODUCTION   It all started in Peru. The partner I had in july, Craig, was already heavy into… Read more »

CORDILLERA BLANCA 2014 – FINAL DISPATCH

I didn´t climb any mountains after Arteson, so dispatch 5 ends here! No kidding!   SURFING AND MOUNTAINS   I got back to Huaraz to try to climb a few more mountains after my first week at the beach, but the season was clearly over for me (and for many people as well, very bad… Read more »

CORDILLERA BLANCA 2014 – DISPATCH 4

Hello lazy people killing time at work! Welcome to a new dispatch! So far July has been a month of long approaches, great partnership, insomnia, World Cup and some tense moments in Parón valley. I´ve hit the 2 month mark of climbing non stop with few rest days in between, which means I am exhausted,… Read more »

COLE

On Sunday, July 13th, I left Huaraz with Craig, Tomas and Vicente towards Parón valley. Craig and I would climb Arteson´s SE face and then Piramide´s NW face, Tomas and Vicente would stick to the first one. Upon arrival in base camp we met John and Cole. Immediately after dropping our huge packs we headed… Read more »

CORDILLERA BLANCA 2014 – DISPATCH 3

Welcome to a new dispatch, courtesy of Sex Burger in Huaraz. Huaraz is a bad city for climbers. As Nacho says, its bars suck away your money, give you a hangover and make you lose focus on the actual climbs. I cannot deny any of this and in fact, as we say in Brazil “the… Read more »