Dear web page, world, people who should be climbing but are wasting time on the internet: for those who don´t know yet, being injured sucks. But is doesn´t have to be all blues. “You can’t climb, period”, said the doc after I tried to go dry tooling on an M5 route and it just destroyed… Read more »
Interesting, relevant and fun news from the climbing world. TOM BALLARD. ALPS. WINTER. NORTH FACES. BY THE WAY, SIX OF THEM. ALONE. His Awesomeness of a climber, Tom Ballard decided to go play around in this winter in the Alps. People say is hard enough climbing in winter anywhere, let alone in the… Read more »
A few months ago I posted the trailer for a short film called “Paraíso”, about the beginnings and development of what I consider to be my local crag. The film was produced by Morfina Filmes and directed by Gabriel Tarso, and was in the running for best film in the Rio Mountain Film Festival. It… Read more »
Nós escaladores normalmente somos loucos por vídeos de escalada. Bom, pelo menos 99% dos escaladores que eu conheço. Nessa de mania de listas, resolvi compartilhar os vídeos que mais me impressionaram, dos escaladores mais monstros, nas vias mais incríveis (sem nenhuma ordem especial). MARK TWIGHT´S BEYOND GOOD AND EVIL, DA MILLET Sou uma fã… Read more »
We climbers are all video freaks, at least 100% of the ones I know. I figured I´d share my selection of the ones I feel are the most impressive videos of the most awesome climbers and bad ass routes. They´re in no particular order. MARK TWIGHT´S BEYOND GOOD AND EVIL, BY MILLET I am… Read more »
I got interviewed for Blog de Escalada, a Brazilian portal that´s pretty democratic and covers pretty much every type of climbing activity in the country, aside from producing their own content. The interview covers really regional related topics and unfortunately we didn´t talk much about alpine climbing per se, but in any case, there´s hardly… Read more »
Falésia Paraíso, or translated literally “Paradise Cliffs”, is one of my favorite sport climb crags in Brazil. I´ve spent countless weekends there in the past years. This is where I started leading on my own and developed myself from a top-roper to an 11 grade climber, forged many good friendships with the amazing locals, camped… Read more »
In the 2013 season 3 Brazilians opened a new route on Fitz Roy, called “Samba do Leão” and graded 6c+ 1400m, 30 pitches, and eventually nominated for a 2014 Piolet D´Or. Watch here.
There´s a saying that goes “if you don´t know where to go, just stay where you are”. I´d like to think, if you don´t know where to go after the climbing season is over, watch this: 35 from ARC’TERYX on Vimeo. Not that you´ll have any answers though, but it´s a great video. 😉
So here I am in the Cruz del Sur bus terminal waiting for endless hours for my bus to leave to Huaraz. I´ve had breakfast, listened to some music, did some crossword puzzles, cut some Alta Montanha stickers and just finished watching “500 days of Summer”. In all those moments I kept asking myself what… Read more »
Someday I’ll climb there just to get my humility back. Alpine Climbing in the Central Alaska Range from Braden Downey on Vimeo. The Alaska Range – Mooses Tooth – Shaken Not Stirred from Ephay on Vimeo. Mt. Foraker via the Sultana Ridge, Alaska Range, 2011 (V6) from damntall on Vimeo.
I recently interviewed big all, aid and solo awesomeness of a climber Silvia Vidal for brazilian mountaineering website AltaMontanha.com. It’s in portuguese and I cannot publish it in other languages but that’s what Google Translate is for. Check it out by clicking the image bellow.