Patagonia is most climber’s dream destination. It could have happened last year but it didn’t. 2018 however, was a go. Bear with me, it’s a long post. Halfway through 2017 I acquired an ITB – iliotibial band syndrome – on my left knee. And then another pulley injury in late October while in Siurana. I… Read more »
2017’s rock trips: Dolomites, Siurana, Verdon, Buoux, Provence and Côte d’Azur, plus a few injuries and plans for the near future. I haven’t written in almost a year. Not a relapse, it was on purpose. Too much exposure I guess. I loved being able to help people that write me asking about anything, but I… Read more »
I could count countries, continents, crags, mountains, cities, routes, people. I won´t. The start of this trip seems like such a long time ago, that when I got to Brazil and people asked me about Nepal, it felt like it was 10 years ago. I can just count that 967 days is almost 3 years…. Read more »
After a week of “resting” around Huaraz (3000 m) and rock climbing (usually around 4000 m), and trying to keep up with the Swiss boy´s daily calorie intake (about 5000 calories a day maybe, half of that for breakfast), I had recovered maybe 1.5 kg of the 5 kg or so I lost in the… Read more »
Like I said in the first dispatch, I had no big plans or expectations for this season. Although I felt I could finally do the hardest climbs I always wanted to do – that feeling of being ready – I wasn´t willing to compromise on safety or poor partnerships. And although I thought I scanned… Read more »
Approved partnership with Bernardo, we decided to head to Alpamayo and Quitaraju next. I had been there already, and climbed Quitaraju in 2014. Alpamayo was a no go due to 2 nights of storms, and although it has never figured high on my list of climbs, I figured I should try it again just because… Read more »
As the shuttle left the Chamonix valley, I couldn´t feel sadness, instead I felt anxious. As the plane lifted off Geneva, I started feeling relief. As I waited to board in Madrid towards Lima, alongside Peruvians, I felt that familiarity come back again. The Peruvian accent in the airport sounded like music. In the bus… Read more »
Over a year ago I posted in Portuguese 346 Days, detailing my year of travelling for climbing and surfing around the world. I usually post my trip reports in Portuguese on Brazilian portals to which I contribute to, so I figured a “wrap” about everything that happened in that year would have a good place… Read more »
I questioned myself several times if I should write a wrap up of 2015 or not. It seems like I didn’t do anything really relevant climbing wise after such and eventful 2014, so what would be the point? I’ve done some cool routes here in the Alps but there are far more and better written… Read more »
Lots of work, not enough play. Be warned, if you come to Chamonix to climb and support yourself at the same time, don’t expect to climb 5 days a week and work 2 because the exact opposite is what is going to happen. And that pretty sums up my summer: lots of mountain running before… Read more »
IT STOPPED RAINING! I´d love to be able to write a post with at least a few dozen climbs, but unfortunately that is not how this will go. Since I am sponsored by no one less than myself, I have to produce myself the funds to live the lifestyle, and in May and June that… Read more »
This is officially now, a Chamonix based blog, page, whatever. Yes, after rambling around the world I ended up here which seems logic to any alpinist nut, but was not for me for a long time. Boy, was I wrong! I wish I had arrived here earlier, like, 10 years ago. But okay, being here… Read more »