#brazilontherocks: FALÉSIA PARAÍSO

A project that began small and turned into a national reference for easy to intermediate sport climbing routes, “Paradise Cliffs” offers accessible granite climbing of many different styles in a secluded area with unbeatable good vibes in the state of São Paulo. 

A welcoming sign to “Paradise” and the first sector opened in the area seen in the background.

Located in a hidden valley in the outskirts of the town of Pindamonhangaba, and 2h30 hours drive from the largest city in the country, Falésia Paraíso began with a few small sectors and a dozen routes, eventually turning into the most democratic sport climbing spot in the country, with over 150 routes of all shapes and sizes. Many people start climbing here, do their first leads here, redpoint their first 5.12s and so on, in an atmosphere of camaraderie that is not often found elsewhere, with almost complete isolation from any urban setting. 

Other people collaborated with pictures to this article, thanks guys!

The grades are presented in YDS/French format (i.e. 0.00x/0x).

If you have any questions, don´t hesitate to send a message on the About Me section. Enjoy!

#brazilontherocks

Myself a few years ago on my favorite warm up route, “Aresta Mansa”, about 5.10c/6b+.

 

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OVERVIEW

 

Four guys got together to start opening some routes in this area tucked in the end of a valley, in the middle of the Mantiqueira range – highest mountains range in Brazil and largest national concentration of rock climbing areas so far. They made their bolts at home, and in a matter of years, top climbers of the state were coming over to help open routes. The movement was driving most of the climbers of the capital to the area for intense days of non stop skin tearing and crimpy squeazing pleasure.

I am biased to talk about it, but the spirit of team work – from discovering, negotiating permission and opening the first routes to preparing the camping area and opening the most recent routes – has endured and floats in the air there. It is a model of well managed sport climbing cliff in a private area, and an absolute success among climbers of neighboring states. Routes may not be super hard or world class, but it´s just one of those places you don´t want to leave. Nowadays the area has 150 routes in 16 sectors, ranging from 5.6/4 to 5.13a/7c+. 

This area is inside private land, and therefore there´s rules to follow. There´s a small fee to climb per day, and a fee to camp per night. Arriving for camping at night is prohibited, although night climbing is tolerated as long as there´s no noise. Remember you are at someone´s backyard. 

Bring a 60 m rope (70 m better) and 15-20 quick draws. Water is available at the farm house, and they also have a simple bathroom with shower for climber´s use. If camping, bring all equipment, especially a tent that can withstand torrential rain during rainy season and decent sleeping bag in the winter. Pack all the trash you produce and take it with you.

Climber on sector “Batcaverna” (Batcave), full of short, bouldery routes in the shade, protected from rain and with many routes for beginners.

A route with mixed protection on the oldest sector, “Boas Vindas” (Welcome).

Always in the shade sector “Platô” and the famous route TPM (Pre Menstrual Tension).

“Seu Renato” is one of the oldest sectors with almost 30 routes of all grades and shapes.

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THE CLIMBING

STYLE
Sport climbing routes on granite and sometimes gneiss, predominantly vertical and with crimps. A few two pitch routes, a few one pitch trad routes and some roofs in specific sectors, but overall medium length and very technical. It is a very good area for beginners and intermediate climbers due to the amount of routes on those levels, although it has gorgeous hard routes as well. 

GRADE RANGE
Over 150 routes in 16 sectors, ranging from 5.6/4 to 5.13a/7c+, facing all directions, so climbable all day, even in the heat of the summer, and some sectors also allow for climbing even if it rains.

Another one of the warm up. The wall seen in the distance recently had some route openings with tons of chimneys and dihedrals.

The rock on the left is the “Visual” sector (a climber in red shirt is visible) which gets hit by strong sun in the morning and has tons of 5.10+s and 5.11-s right next to each other. The rock on the right is the end of the 30m routes on sector “Boas Vindas”.

A classic, and the first 5.12a/7a+ of many, “90 graus” is in the sector of same name, very shaded and cool especially on hot summer days.

SEASON

Even though it is located in the Mantiqueira highlands, which is a magnet for rain and humidity during 70% of the year, this area is climbable year round. Some sectors are in the shade depending on time of day, and some don´t get wet when it rains. Winter is more comfortable because of lower temperatures and drier weather though. 

WARNINGS

Being inside dense jungle area, there´s snakes, spiders and mosquitos. It is advisable to walk in between sectors and in the camping area in closed shoes. Bring a mosquito repellent as well.

Halfway on “Cinturão Galático”, a classic 5.10a/6a.

Sector “Acampamento”, away from the main group, has some cracks and roofs, still with some potential for new routes, but also very sought after by bees and wasps, especially in the summer.

Crimpy granite climbs are the rule.

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BETAS

GETTING THERE

You must get to the town of Pindamonhangaba and from there take a car (rent or share) to get to the rural area where the spot is. The climbing guide linked bellow has good instructions. 

WHERE TO STAY

There´s a designated camping area, without any infrastructure. There´s a parking area before the farm house, and in the farm house there´s water and a bathroom with shower. You must then walk about 15-20 minutes to reach the camping area, with is underneath a shaded area with trees. There´s a fee for each night of camping, payable at the entrance.

Breakfast set up on the new camping area. Inviting?

The old camping area, in front of “Titanic” the only boulder in the area, about 3 meters high and with some 10 lines up to V8.

IN THE TOWN

You can buy all the food and supplies you need in Pinda, but bring all your gear and camping gas. 

GUIDE BOOK

An online and free guidebook is available for download here (first one on the upper left).It is constantly updated, so it is wise to download and print it a few weeks before getting there. It is quite simple without any pictures but does the job pretty well of pointing out all the routes by location and grade, as well as giving good instructions of how to get there.

A quick look at the free, downloadable climbing guide.

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MORE RESOURCES

Here´s some cool links with extra info and pictures a lot better than mine:

And a few videos, starting with a beautiful short film:

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Written by Cissa

Fanatic alpinist, rock climber, and wannabe surfer. Sports and travel content writer and graphic designer in the meantime. Self sponsored, based out of a haul bag.