June 21st, 2018. Summer solstice, the longest day of the year. That night it seemed like the sun didn’t set, and outside of Craig and Sara’s flat the seagulls understood that quite well. I was exhausted from long flights and layovers, so much so I hardly noticed much of my surroundings at first. As Sean… Read more »
Patagonia is most climber’s dream destination. It could have happened last year but it didn’t. 2018 however, was a go. Bear with me, it’s a long post. Halfway through 2017 I acquired an ITB – iliotibial band syndrome – on my left knee. And then another pulley injury in late October while in Siurana. I… Read more »
2017’s rock trips: Dolomites, Siurana, Verdon, Buoux, Provence and Côte d’Azur, plus a few injuries and plans for the near future. I haven’t written in almost a year. Not a relapse, it was on purpose. Too much exposure I guess. I loved being able to help people that write me asking about anything, but I… Read more »
I could count countries, continents, crags, mountains, cities, routes, people. I won´t. The start of this trip seems like such a long time ago, that when I got to Brazil and people asked me about Nepal, it felt like it was 10 years ago. I can just count that 967 days is almost 3 years…. Read more »
Save the best for last. One of the classic areas for long routes in Brazil, and probably the area that is fastest pioneering clean climbing, “São Bento” offers tough granite trad, multi pitch, sport and boulder areas at huge amounts, for all styles, halfway between the two largest cities in the country. But because of… Read more »
A project that began small and turned into a national reference for easy to intermediate sport climbing routes, “Paradise Cliffs” offers accessible granite climbing of many different styles in a secluded area with unbeatable good vibes in the state of São Paulo. Located in a hidden valley in the outskirts of the town of Pindamonhangaba,… Read more »
A hidden gem in the middle of nowhere, closer to Uruguay than to any capital of Brazil, for those who love isolation, completely wild camping, in conglomerate rock, surrounded by magical looking woods. And best of all: absolutely NO CROWDS. Casa de Pedra (House of Stone), also referred to as Bagé – the county in… Read more »
Salto Ventoso is a well known basalt climbing spot for intermediate/hard level sport climbing in a dreamy setting with world class routes. Located about 200 km from the capital, amidst many other sport climbing areas, it is the school for many climbers in the state and quite a challenging one, with projects of up to… Read more »
Rio! Rio! Rio! Always on the spotlight and most recognizable post card of Brazil, the city of Rio de Janeiro is the birthplace of climbing in the country, home to an amazing climbing community, routes of all shapes and sizes and the largest urban climbing area in the world. Be it a 300 m multi-pitch… Read more »
Serra do Cipó is probably the most well known and mythical sport climbing area of Brazil, and considered by some the best sport climbing area in South America. Also around the city of Belo Horizonte, Serra do Cipó is one of many limestone sport climbing areas of great quality and easy access, however, it has… Read more »